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Posts tagged ‘Lago de Atitlan’

Touch of Guatemalans

One of the best memories I’ve had so far of Guatemala is at the lake where we stayed for 2 nights. I had the idea of taking the canoe out to the lake and enjoy the late afternoon before the sun starts to set. I forgot that I dislike water, and panic immediately gripped me as soon as I stepped into the canoe. Blue eyes found it amusing, he’s so used to lake and water that it feels like second skin to him. He managed to calm me down a bit and we started paddling further out to the lake. I was still afraid until blue eyes pointed me to a boat away from us where 4 kids were laughing and enjoying the lake view.

Boys having fun on Lake Atitlan

We watched the kids for a while. They saw us watching and laughed. The oldest boy was doing most of the paddling while the others laughed and giggled away. Our boats soon crossed each other and blue eyes gave them some snacks that he had in his bag. They tried to fight for the snacks among them, laughed some more and then paddled away. We laughed along with them, waved and watched them for a couple more minutes. No jokes needed and I forgot I was afraid.

Boys jumping into the lake for a swim @ Lake Atitlan

Guatemalans always have a smile on their face. Regardless of how difficult life can be. And life here can be difficult. Especially on the highlands. On our way to the lake, often times we see men carrying heavy loads of wood on their back while walking up the steep hill. Kids and their mothers carry handicrafts on their heads and try to make ends meet. Later in the day, mothers get busy washing clothes on the edge of the lake while their children swim and play in the water. Fathers go out to the lake to lay out their fishing nets for the next day catch. And finally when the sun sets, family returns home and have a meal together.

Guatemala is the most populous country in Central America. The US Department of State website, quoting the World Bank, said Guatemala’s income distribution was one of the most unequal in the region with the wealthiest 20% of population consuming 51% of GDP. This means 51% of the 15 million population earns less than US$2 a day and 15% on less than US$1 per day.

On the day when we’re leaving Lake Atitlan, there were two kids playing near our pier. They saw us and laughed. We smiled. Blue eyes had some stickers from Finland so he gave one to each. They gigled, said “gracias” and ran away and hid behind some trees not far away. When our boat arrived and we got on it, they came out of their hiding and waved us goodbye. Again no words needed, just a simple gesture and we felt touched in some ways.

Guatemalan road trip

We took Daniel’s recommendation and headed to Lake Atitlan for a three-day getaway. There were several options on how to get there but we decided to take the most expensive one ie. rent a driver so we can have stops along the way and see some places. It cost us US$100 (it should have been US$95 but our driver didn’t have change), which is equivalent to our 2 nights stay at Posada de Santiago.

Local woman praying to San Simon

Our first stop was San Andes, the permanent home of San Simon, or also known as Maximon by the locals, a deity that reflects a combination of Maya gods,Pedro de Alvarado (the Spanish conquistador of Guatemala) and Judas in the Bible. And oh man, what a strange looking god he is! He wears a cowboy hat and smokes a cigar while sitting on his altar. The walls were decorated with plagues of worshippers giving thanks to San Simon for answering their prayers and granting their wishes. It’s quite an unusual scene for me.

After the strange encounter, we left for Iximche, the Mayan ruins where the indigenous people once lived. The archaeological area features palaces, plazas where people gathered and had various ceremonies, as well as ball courts, where people played their version of football. Apparently, the losing team had to sacrifice (literally) one of their members. Human sacrifices were not uncommon then.

I find it amazing that the places we’ve been to in Guatemala have always been clean, since not everywhere in Malaysia is considered clean, even in major cities. I’m particularly grateful that public toilets that I’ve visited so far have been clean and there’s always toilet paper (again I’m afraid not common in Malaysia). I’m sort of a clean freak (clutter and messiness makes me queasy) so you can imagine my relief that I didn’t have to hold my breath when I visit the toilet.

We had a pretty good start of the day as by the time we finished walking around Iximche, it was not even 11am yet. There’s still ample of time before our check-in at 3pm so we headed to Chichicastenango, as it’s popular for its market day on Thursday. The town was crowded when we arrived. Roads are narrower than Antigua and less well maintained to a certain extend. Still there’s a Guatemalan feel to it – the rustiness, the people, the colour, the sound. We took a quick lunch (it cost Q150 for 3 persons) at a cafe at the edge of the market and started roaming around.

Items at the market are pretty similar; handicrafts in the form of bags, table runners, table mats, scarfs, belts and clothes; pottery, wooden masks and wooden instruments. There are also fruits, vegetables and fisheries on sale. Prices of souvenirs and handicrafts could be slashed by at least 20%. I bought a handmade belt for Q70; the boy had asked for Q90. It was interesting in some ways to negotiate and bargain, and watch how they react.

Shoe polish boys working outside the Church of Santo Tomas

There’s a famous church called Church of Santo Tomas, which is about 400 years old, in the middle of the marketplace. There are many people at the footsteps of the church, selling flowers, incense and candles. Sort of reminded me of Hindu temple back home. As we walked in, I found worshippers along the stairs burning a strange smell of incense and there were many burnt candles found within the church compound. I read later that K’iche’ Maya priests still use the church for their rituals, hence the incense burning and candles. We weren’t allowed to take photos of the church but the interior seems darker than any church I’ve visited before. There was a mother and son walking on their knees on the ground towards the altar. The mother was praying fervently while the son looked a bit bored. The holy place, it seems, is a contradiction between Christian beliefs and pagan worships, and yet it fits the locals just as well.

Lake Atitlan

After Chichi, we went on our way to Posada de Santiago. The journey wasn’t memorable as we fell asleep along the way. We woke up when the view of the huge lake opened up before us and we quickly asked Angel, our driver, if he could stop and let us take a breather (also to take pix!). The lake stood gorgeously before us, even with the misty and clouds, it looked magnificent. The short road trip has been fun and the arrival of the lake is very much welcomed. Think we’re all ready for some quiet days ahead.

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