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Posts from the ‘Commonwealth of the Bahamas’ Category

Paradise for the Rich

Nassau reminded me of Kuta, Bali – touristy, crowded, too many shops, too expensive. There are many branded stores here such as Cartier, Rolex, Gucci and Fendi. There are  close to 250,000 people living in Nassau, excluding the throng of tourists that come to the city every day. I mentioned to Jarmo today that I see too many old, rich tourists (ie. grey hair, wrinkles, rolex, diamond rings, etc). Nothing wrong with that of course. It’s just a tell-tale of what kind of destination Nassau is.

In contrast to the quaint Georgetown in Exuma, Nassau is very busy and rightly so, since it is the capital of Bahamas. Its harbour has several ships that stop by everyday. One shop sales assistant told us that it could be as many as 7 ships, bringing many tourists on board to come and shop in Nassau. Unlike Exuma, where most of the beaches are public, Nassau only has a few public beaches.

Every Bahamian we met suggested us to visit Atlantis in Paradise island. Even my Malaysian friend, SK told me to check it out. And so we did and boy, were we disappointed. The Atlantis is just one big resort targeted at tourists, making them spend lots of money while in the vicinity – there are lots of shops and cafes, as well as an outdoor theme park and beach area (both required entrance fees). The so-called mega aquarium they spoke about was so boring – personally I don’t enjoy watching animals ‘locked’ in some sort of ‘cage’ and honestly, seeing sharks swimming in an inhibited lake is just not the same as watching them in the ocean. Blue eyes says this is probably the only opportunity we have to seeing the animals since we don’t dive – probably this is a good motivation for us to try to learn diving. It’s not a cheap tour as we paid $39 per person for the aquarium entrance – both indoor and outdoor.

We stayed in a relatively cheap hotel ($84 per person for 3 nights!) in downtown Nassau, close to Bay St, which is the shopping area for tourists. Lots of souvenir shops, jewelry and watch shops, as well as restaurants and cafes. The pier is close by and the ferry terminal is within walking distance. We took the taxi to the Atlantis because it was raining and it cost $16 inclusive of $1 toll. On the way back, we decided to take the ferry, which cost $4 per person. On the ferry, there was a navigator who started to give us an overview of Nassau and Bahamas. He was witty and his stories were entertaining. The pity is, his talk wasn’t free as he asked for tips at the end of his session (wish he could have told us in the beginning so we can say No!). That makes our ferry ticket on average $5 per person, which is almost the same as taking the cab but not the same, since we have to walk back to the hotel from the terminal.

Today, we decided to do our laundry and asked at the reception the nearest laundromat. She pointed us to one a few blocks down the road and showed us the location on the map. She suggested we take the bus but we felt it was close enough for walking and so we did. Unaware to us, the laundromat is located in the local ghetto. There we were, with our camera and backpack, walking down the street. One car stopped us mid-way and told us to be careful of the drug addicts in the area. Upon reaching the laundromat, we asked if we could use the wifi and the lady at the counter told us to be careful of our laptops as thieves might snatch and run away with them. When blue eyes asked if there’s a tailor nearby to fix jeans, she laughed and said, “You want to fix your jeans in the ghetto?” For that short moment, I was getting worried. Goodness, where the hell are we? Thankfully, we survived the laundry and we took the bus back to downtown.

Nassau doesn’t appeal to me very much, but I probably don’t fall into the city’s target market. Glad we’re leaving tomorrow!

In Vino Veritas

17:45, at Hooper’s Bay on an island of Exuma. We are in Commonwealth of the Bahamas. It’s Saturday and dinner is almost ready. But then the reality hits us, there’s no wine with the dinner. Blue eyes cycles to the liquor shop but it’s closed. What to do?

There is a bottle of wine to catch, so the bike heads further on the dark dangerous road. After a while there’s a white house on the right side of the road. There are cars on the yard. I curve my bike next to the house. A tall man there gets interested and asks if everything is ok and if he can help me somehow.

I told him I am looking for a liquor shop. I told him there’s a dinner waiting. I told him about the wine bottle which I don’t have. I told him about the shop which was closed. I told him this, and I told him that.

Tall man has intelligent eyes. He listens carefully and confirms that liquor shops are indeed closed. He asks which kind of wine I’m looking for. He tells me something and jumps into his car. Yes, I told him that I can wait 10 minutes.

I’m standing on the yard alone and the night of the Bahamas is getting darker. I wonder if others are missing me. I wonder if dinner is finished already. A car arrives and three men jump out. They ask if everything is alright. And then I see their batches. I am in front of the Bahamas Royal Police Forces, Exuma’s Detective Unit. I am looking for a bottle of wine from the police station. Uups!

Tall man returns with bottle of red wine. He is detective sergeant Forbes. And the bottle is for me. I would pay but sergeant Forbes says that it’s a gift. I didn’t argue, but I ask if taking a picture is ok. After few seconds of pondering, sergeant Forbes decides that it is. We call an officer on duty and soon my Nokia E7 captures a moment in front of Exuma’s Detective Unit.

I cycle back with a bottle of Lamothe Parrot, Vin de France in my backpack. Dinner is waiting. Wine, the story behind it and beautiful island of Exuma and its amazing people gets a special place in our hearts.

Meet the Bahamians

“I like my coffee like how I like my woman – black, hot and sweet!” 

Meet KB, the proud owner of Chat N Chill @ Stocking Island. We had the privilege of meeting him on our last day in Exuma before we left for Nassau for the rest of our trip in Bahamas.

KB, which stands for Kenneth Bowe (B-O-W-E, KB reminded me), is a 62-year old Bahamian, born n bred in Exuma. He’s quite a charmer, the minute we sat down, he put us at ease by asking where we’re from. When I said I’m from Malaysia, he looked at me and say, “You’re Malaysian Chinese”. Wow, how did he know, I asked. Smiling, he said he was in Singapore in the 1970s and Lee Kuan Yew was his hero, and he discovered the ethnic diversity of Singapore and Malaysia.

They say, never judge a book by its cover, and boy, that rings so true with KB 😉 In his t-shirt and South Africa cap, he looked like any bar owner but in actual fact, KB’s an accomplished economist who completed his degree at the Chicago University School of Economics. By age of 31, he quit his job at the bank and became an entrepreneur, and has never looked back. “I’m 62, and I’ve no regrets!”, he says.

As we had our drinks (boys had rum & tonic while I had rum punch), we continued our chat with KB. He spoke in pride of his twin sons, one an orthopedic and another a banker, both work in Nassau, the capital of Bahamas. He talked about his travel, and how much he liked South Africa and Cape Town – “I want to start something in South Africa; maybe to teach,” he says.

We asked about conch salad, a Bahamian dish that we’ve been recommended to try, and KB pointed us to his other stall (literally) next to the beach. “AJ will dish you the nice salad fresh from the seawater!”

Later we found out that the conch was fetched from the sea upon order and mixed with tomatoes, capsicum, onions and hot pepper, and tossed in lime and orange juice. The fresh salad is refreshing on a sunny warm day like we had today. And Stocking island is the perfect place to have it, as the beach is gorgeous and the view of the many boats docking at the area makes it even better!

We returned to Chat N Chill after exploring the beach further, and KB was there, ready to suggest us another drink. This time round, I had the Bahamian Mama while blue eyes had the house drink that is the same colour as his eyes. Jarmo was finishing his pina colada and ordered the Bahamian Mama also. We were getting hungry so we ordered the house specialty – grilled ribs with rice and peas for blue eyes, groupa with fries for me and Jarmo chicken with rice and peas (rice & peas are Bahamian staple food). They tasted damn good! And conversation at the table was fun – KB was telling us how he once hooked up with a flight attendant while seated at the first class section 😉

Soon it was time to go. We bid our goodbyes, and thanked KB for his hospitality. As we walked towards our water taxi, we laughed about KB’s coffee and women. He’s definitely a colourful character!

Elvis – water taxi rider

Elvis was our water taxi rider to Stocking island and on our way back to Georgetown, he told us to look out for dolphins. We were hopeful and we’re lucky cos’ within minutes, we saw some jumping out from the water not too far from us. Elvis kindly drove the water taxi close to the dolphins so we can have a closer look and take pictures. There were about 3 dolphins (blue eyes counted 4 but that could be after his 4 drinks) and they were dancing in the water, as if performing for us! How beautiful and a nice closure to our experience in the Exumas 🙂

Another day in Paradise

As I enjoyed the cool breeze on a sunny afternoon, this Phil Collin’s song came to mind 🙂 How apt since Georgetown in the Exumas, Bahamas does feel like a paradise! Sandy beaches, clear blue sea and palm trees bring forth a sense of serenity that is very much appreciated after the long days of travelling.

We landed yesterday evening and the flights have been way too long. It was 2 flights from Baltimore to Nassau,Bahamas (via Miami) and then a short domestic flight to Georgetown. We rented a cottage at HoopersBay for about $60/night/person – a little high for our budget – but it’s one of the cheapest we found. Exumas is one of the Outer Islands of Bahamas – the main islands are Nassau (Paradise island) and Grand Bahama – that are less crowded than Nassau. There are only 7,000 people living in the Exumas versus 250,000 in Nassau.

The driver who picked us up at the airport to the cottage, Luther said Exumas was well known for its friendly people and beautiful beaches. And so far, his words are proven quite true (i let blue eyes give the anecdote) as we’ve had very experiences here and it’s only been 2 days! The cottage, which is 10 minutes walk away, is well equipped with Wifi, functional kitchen (our only grievance: chopping board was missing and there’s no dish detergent!), air-conditioners as well as bicycles. Georgetown is about 5 km away and since I’m the only one who couldn’t cycle, I’m trying to fix the handicap by learning in the next few days (wish me luck!)

I’m looking forward to some good rest while we’re here. No rush, no plans, no museum or places to visit. Simply the beach 🙂

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