/* BlueBrownEyes — Direction 1a "Classic travel journal".
   Tokens: BACKEND/branding/tokens.css (source of truth: claude-design/Design System.dc.html).
   Mobile first. No inline styles in pages; every component is a class here. */

/* FONTS:SELF-HOSTED — generated by BACKEND/scripts/install_fonts.py */
/* Pinned axes are baked into the file — see the 'pin' block in
   BACKEND/config/sites/*.json. Re-run install_fonts.py to change them. */
@font-face {
  font-family: "Source Serif 4";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/source-serif-4-var.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 200 900;
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Source Serif 4";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/source-serif-4-var-italic.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 200 900;
  font-style: italic;
  font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Gelasio";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/gelasio-400.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 400;
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Gelasio";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/gelasio-400-italic.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 400;
  font-style: italic;
  font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Gelasio";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/gelasio-600.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 600;
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Karla";
  src: url("/assets/fonts/karla-var.woff2") format("woff2");
  font-weight: 200 800;
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
}
/* /FONTS:SELF-HOSTED */

:root {
  --c-bg: #F7F4E5;
  --c-surface-2: #EFEAD6;
  --c-text: #2B2622;
  --c-surface: #FFFDF6;
  --c-muted: #6B6158;
  --c-text-2: #4A423B;
  --c-line: #E1D9C2;
  --c-line-2: #CFC5A8;
  --c-brand: #B23A17;
  --c-brand-hover: #7E2810;
  --c-accent-blue: #2F4A7A;
  --c-accent-brown: #7A4A2A;
  --c-highlight: #F5DFA6;
  --c-error: #9B2C1C;
  --c-photo-frame: #FFFFFF;
  --c-on-ink: #F7F4E5;
  --c-on-ink-muted: #CFC5A8;

  --f-display: "Gelasio", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --f-body: "Source Serif 4", "Source Serif Pro", Georgia, serif;
  --f-ui: "Karla", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;

  --t-display: clamp(2.25rem, 1.2rem + 3.6vw, 3.75rem);
  --t-h2: clamp(1.875rem, 1.4rem + 1.6vw, 2.75rem);
  --t-h3: clamp(1.5rem, 1.3rem + .6vw, 1.875rem);
  --t-h4: clamp(1.3125rem, 1.2rem + .3vw, 1.5rem);
  --t-body: clamp(1.125rem, 1.05rem + .25vw, 1.25rem);
  --t-caption: 1.0625rem;
  --t-meta: .9375rem;
  --t-label: .8125rem;
  --lh-tight: 1.05; --lh-head: 1.15; --lh-body: 1.7; --lh-ui: 1.5;
  --measure: 45rem;
  --wide: 75rem;

  --s1: 4px; --s2: 8px; --s3: 12px; --s4: 16px; --s5: 24px;
  --s6: 32px; --s7: 48px; --s8: 64px; --s9: 96px; --s10: 128px;
  --gutter: var(--s4);
  --section-gap: var(--s7);

  --r-xs: 2px; --r-sm: 4px; --r-md: 8px; --r-lg: 14px; --r-pill: 999px;

  --frame: 8px;
  --shadow-print: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.12), 0 8px 24px rgba(60,40,20,.10);
  --shadow-card: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.10);
  --tilt: rotate(-0.6deg);
}
@media (min-width: 600px)  { :root { --frame: 12px; --t-meta: 1rem; } }
@media (min-width: 768px)  { :root { --gutter: var(--s7); --section-gap: var(--s8); } }
@media (min-width: 1200px) { :root { --gutter: var(--s9); } }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { :root { --tilt: none; } }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- base */
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { background: var(--c-bg); color: var(--c-text); font-family: var(--f-body); font-size: 100%;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-padding-top: var(--s9); }
body { margin: 0; font-size: var(--t-body); line-height: var(--lh-body); background: var(--c-bg); }
h1, h2, h3, h4 { font-family: var(--f-display); font-weight: 400; line-height: var(--lh-head); text-wrap: balance; margin: 0; }
h1 { font-size: var(--t-display); line-height: var(--lh-tight); }
h2 { font-size: var(--t-h2); }
h3 { font-size: var(--t-h3); }
h4 { font-size: var(--t-h4); }
p { margin: 0; text-wrap: pretty; }
a { color: var(--c-brand); text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: 3px; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
a:hover { color: var(--c-brand-hover); }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--c-text); outline-offset: 3px; }
img, video { display: block; max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
mark { background: var(--c-highlight); color: var(--c-text); padding: 0 2px; }
button, input, select, textarea { font: inherit; color: inherit; }
ul.plain, ol.plain { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
/* the hidden attribute always wins over component display rules (reset, not a token override) */
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
details:not([open]) > :not(summary) { display: none !important; }
.visually-hidden { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip-link { position: absolute; left: var(--s4); top: -100px; z-index: 100; background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink);
  padding: var(--s3) var(--s4); font-family: var(--f-ui); }
.skip-link:focus { top: var(--s4); color: var(--c-on-ink); }

.wrap { width: 100%; max-width: calc(var(--wide) + 2 * var(--gutter)); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); }
.measure { max-width: var(--measure); margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; }
.stack > * + * { margin-top: var(--s5); }
.section { margin-top: var(--section-gap); }
.section:last-child { margin-bottom: var(--section-gap); }

/* UI type */
.label { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: var(--t-label); font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--c-brand); line-height: var(--lh-ui); }
.label--muted { color: var(--c-muted); }
.label--blue { color: var(--c-accent-blue); }
.meta { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: var(--t-meta); color: var(--c-muted); line-height: var(--lh-ui); }
.lede { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; font-size: var(--t-h4); color: var(--c-text-2); line-height: 1.45; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- wordmark + header */
.wordmark { font-family: var(--f-display); color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; line-height: 1; white-space: nowrap; }
.wordmark:hover { color: var(--c-text); }
.wordmark .wm-blue { color: var(--c-accent-blue); }
.wordmark .wm-brown { color: var(--c-accent-brown); }

.site-header { background: var(--c-surface-2); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); font-family: var(--f-ui); position: relative; z-index: 20; }
.site-header__bar { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s4); min-height: 64px; }
.site-header .wordmark { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.site-header--home { background: var(--c-bg); border-bottom: 0; }
.site-header--home .site-header__brand { text-align: center; padding: var(--s6) 0 var(--s4); }
.site-header--home .wordmark { font-size: clamp(2.25rem, 1.6rem + 2.4vw, 3rem); }
.site-header--home .tagline { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-muted); font-size: 1.125rem; margin-top: var(--s2); }
.site-header--home .nav-band { background: var(--c-surface-2); border-top: 1px solid var(--c-line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); }
.site-header--home .site-header__bar { justify-content: center; }
.site-header--home .site-header__bar .wordmark { display: none; }

.primary-nav { display: none; }
.primary-nav ul { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: var(--s5); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.primary-nav a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; font-size: 1rem; padding: var(--s2) 0; display: inline-block; }
.primary-nav a:hover { color: var(--c-brand); text-decoration: underline; }
.primary-nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--c-brand); font-weight: 700; }

.search-field { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; width: 220px; height: 42px; padding: 0 14px; border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2);
  background: var(--c-surface); border-radius: var(--r-xs); color: var(--c-muted); font-size: .9375rem; text-decoration: none; }
.search-field:hover { border-color: var(--c-muted); }
.search-field:focus-within { border-color: var(--c-text); outline: 2px solid var(--c-text); outline-offset: 1px; }
.search-field input { border: 0; background: transparent; flex: 1; min-width: 0; height: 100%; padding: 0; color: var(--c-text); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
.search-field input:focus { outline: none; }
.search-field input::placeholder { color: var(--c-muted); opacity: 1; }
.search-field::before { content: ""; width: 11px; height: 11px; border: 2px solid currentColor; border-radius: var(--r-pill); flex: none; }

.menu-button { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0 var(--s4);
  background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-radius: var(--r-xs); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; font-weight: 700; cursor: pointer; }
.site-header--home .menu-button { position: absolute; top: var(--s4); right: var(--gutter); }

@media (min-width: 1000px) {
  .primary-nav { display: block; }
  .menu-button { display: none; }
  .site-header--home .site-header__bar { gap: var(--s7); }
}
@media (max-width: 999px) {
  .search-field--header { display: none; }
  .site-header--home .nav-band { display: none; }
  .site-header--home { background: var(--c-surface-2); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); }
  .site-header--home .site-header__brand { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s4);
    text-align: left; padding: var(--s3) var(--gutter); min-height: 64px; }
  .site-header--home .site-header__brand .wordmark { font-size: 1.5rem; }
  .site-header--home .tagline { display: none; }
  .site-header--home .menu-button { position: static; }
}

/* mobile menu: full-screen panel */
.menu-panel { position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 50; background: var(--c-bg); overflow-y: auto; padding: var(--s4) var(--gutter) var(--s7); font-family: var(--f-ui); }
.menu-panel[hidden] { display: none; }
.menu-panel__top { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; min-height: 48px; margin-bottom: var(--s5); }
.menu-panel__top .wordmark { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.menu-panel .menu-button { background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); border-color: var(--c-text); position: static; }
.menu-panel nav > ul > li { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); }
.menu-panel nav > ul > li > a { display: block; padding: var(--s3) 0; font-family: var(--f-display); font-size: 1.5rem; color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.menu-panel nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--c-brand); }
.menu-panel .sub { padding: 0 0 var(--s3) var(--s4); }
.menu-panel .sub a { display: block; padding: var(--s2) 0; color: var(--c-text-2); font-size: 1rem; min-height: 44px; }
.menu-panel .search-field { width: 100%; margin-bottom: var(--s5); height: 48px; }
.menu-panel__tagline { margin-top: var(--s7); font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-muted); }
body.menu-open { overflow: hidden; }

/* reading progress bar (stories only) */
.progress { height: 3px; background: var(--c-line); position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 30; }
.progress__bar { height: 3px; width: 0; background: var(--c-brand); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- footer */
.site-footer { background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); font-family: var(--f-ui); margin-top: var(--s9); padding: var(--s7) 0; }
.site-footer a { color: var(--c-on-ink); text-decoration: none; }
.site-footer a:hover { color: var(--c-on-ink); text-decoration: underline; }
.site-footer__inner { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s5); }
.site-footer .wordmark { color: var(--c-on-ink); font-size: 1.5rem; }
.site-footer .wordmark .wm-blue { color: #9DB2D9; }
.site-footer .wordmark .wm-brown { color: #D9A988; }
.site-footer ul { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2) var(--s5); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-size: .9375rem; }
.site-footer ul a { display: inline-block; padding: var(--s2) 0; }
.site-footer__note { color: var(--c-on-ink-muted); font-size: .875rem; }
.link-button { background: none; border: 0; padding: var(--s2) 0; color: inherit; cursor: pointer; font: inherit; }
.link-button:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .site-footer__inner { flex-direction: row; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; } }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- buttons, chips, tags */
.button { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 44px; padding: 0 var(--s5); border-radius: var(--r-xs);
  background: var(--c-brand); color: #fff; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; border: 1px solid var(--c-brand); cursor: pointer; }
.button:hover { background: var(--c-brand-hover); border-color: var(--c-brand-hover); color: #fff; }
.button--outline { background: transparent; color: var(--c-text); border-color: var(--c-text); }
.button--outline:hover { background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); border-color: var(--c-text); }
.text-link { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }

.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
.chip { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; padding: 0 var(--s4); border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-radius: var(--r-pill);
  background: var(--c-surface); color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; }
.chip:hover { border-color: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-text); }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"], .chip[aria-current="page"] { background: var(--c-text); border-color: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); font-weight: 700; }
.chip .count { color: var(--c-muted); margin-left: var(--s2); font-weight: 400; }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] .count { color: var(--c-on-ink-muted); }
.tags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .875rem; }
.tags a { display: inline-block; border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-radius: var(--r-pill); padding: 6px 12px; color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.tags a:hover { border-color: var(--c-text); }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .chip { min-height: 36px; } }

.badge { display: inline-block; background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .6875rem; font-weight: 700;
  letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 2px 6px; border-radius: var(--r-xs); line-height: 1.4; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- photos */
.print { background: var(--c-photo-frame); padding: var(--frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-print); }
.print--tilt { transform: var(--tilt); }
.print img { width: 100%; }
.cover { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.ratio-3x2 { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
.ratio-4x3 { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; }
.ratio-16x9 { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; }
.ratio-1x1 { aspect-ratio: 1 / 1; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- cards */
.card-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--s5); grid-template-columns: 1fr; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
@media (min-width: 600px) { .card-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .card-grid--3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } .card-grid--4 { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); } }

.story-card { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); position: relative; }
.story-card__photo { background: var(--c-photo-frame); padding: 6px; box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); }
.story-card__photo img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; }
.story-card__title { font-size: var(--t-h4); line-height: 1.2; }
.story-card__title a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.story-card__title a::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; }
.story-card:hover .story-card__title a { color: var(--c-brand); text-decoration: underline; }
.story-card__journey { align-self: flex-start; }
.story-card--text { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s5); min-height: 100%; }
.story-card--text .story-card__excerpt { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--c-text-2); line-height: 1.5; }
.story-card--text .meta { margin-top: auto; padding-top: var(--s3); }
.story-card[hidden] { display: none; }

.section-head { display: flex; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s4); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line-2);
  padding-bottom: var(--s2); margin-bottom: var(--s5); }
.section-head h2 { font-size: var(--t-h3); }
.section-head a { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- home */
.intro-line { text-align: center; font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-text-2); font-size: 1.125rem; margin: var(--s6) auto 0; max-width: 46rem; }
.feature { display: grid; gap: var(--s6); align-items: start; }
.feature__photo .print { transform: var(--tilt); }
.feature__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.feature__body h2 { font-size: var(--t-h2); }
.feature__body h2 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.feature__body h2 a:hover { color: var(--c-brand); }
.feature__pair { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: var(--s2); margin: var(--s2) 0; }
.feature__pair img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 1 / 1; object-fit: cover; border: 6px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); }
.feature__body .button { align-self: flex-start; margin-top: var(--s2); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .feature { grid-template-columns: 1.15fr 1fr; gap: var(--s7); } }

.journey-cards { display: grid; gap: var(--s5); grid-template-columns: 1fr; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.journey-cards--single .journey-card { max-width: none; }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .journey-cards--multi { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (min-width: 1100px) { .journey-cards--three { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } }
.journey-card { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.journey-card__photo img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; }
.journey-card__body { padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); flex: 1; }
.journey-card__body h3 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.journey-card__sub { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-text-2); font-size: 1rem; }
.journey-card__stops { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .875rem; color: var(--c-text-2); line-height: 1.6; }
.journey-card .button { align-self: flex-start; margin-top: auto; }

.places-strip { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: var(--s5) var(--s4); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center; }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .places-strip { grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); } }
.places-strip a { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: var(--s2); color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; font-weight: 700; }
.places-strip img { width: 96px; height: 96px; border-radius: var(--r-pill); object-fit: cover; border: 5px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .places-strip img { width: 120px; height: 120px; } }
.places-strip a:hover { color: var(--c-brand); }

.food-block { background: var(--c-surface-2); padding: var(--s6) var(--s5); display: grid; gap: var(--s6); align-items: start; }
.food-block__photo { transform: var(--tilt); }
.food-block__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.food-block__body h3 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.food-block__also { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-text-2); }
@media (min-width: 800px) { .food-block { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.3fr; padding: var(--s7); } }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- page headings */
.page-head { padding-top: var(--s7); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.page-head p { color: var(--c-text-2); }
.breadcrumb { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-muted); }
.breadcrumb ol { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.breadcrumb li + li::before { content: "›"; margin-right: var(--s2); }
.breadcrumb a { color: var(--c-muted); }
.breadcrumb [aria-current] { color: var(--c-text-2); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- stories index + filters */
.filters { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s4); border-top: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); padding: var(--s5) 0; margin-top: var(--s6); }
.filters__row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s3); align-items: center; }
.filters__name { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-weight: 700; font-size: .9375rem; width: 4.5rem; }
.jump { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; display: flex; gap: var(--s3); align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.jump a { min-height: 44px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .filters__row--split { justify-content: space-between; } .jump a { min-height: 0; } }
.year-group { margin-top: var(--s7); }
.year-group > header { display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: var(--s4); margin-bottom: var(--s5); }
.year-group > header h2 { font-size: var(--t-h2); }
.year-group[hidden] { display: none; }
.empty-note { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-text-2); margin-top: var(--s6); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- article */
.article { max-width: var(--measure); margin: 0 auto; padding: var(--s7) 0 var(--s8); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s5); }
.article__title { font-size: var(--t-display); }
.byline { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: var(--s4); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: var(--t-meta); color: var(--c-text-2);
  padding-bottom: var(--s5); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); line-height: var(--lh-ui); }
.byline strong { color: var(--c-text); }
.avatar { width: 48px; height: 48px; border-radius: var(--r-pill); object-fit: cover; border: 2px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); flex: none; }
.avatar--sm { width: 36px; height: 36px; }

.toc { background: var(--c-surface-2); padding: var(--s3) var(--s5); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
.toc summary { cursor: pointer; min-height: 44px; display: flex; align-items: center; list-style: none; }
.toc summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.toc summary::after { content: "+"; margin-left: auto; font-size: 1.25rem; }
.toc[open] summary::after { content: "–"; }
.toc ul { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); list-style: none; margin: 0 0 var(--s3); padding: 0; }
.toc:not([open]) > ul { display: none; }   /* author display rules must not defeat the collapse */
@media (min-width: 768px) {
  .toc { padding: 14px var(--s5); }
  .toc[open] { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2) var(--s5); align-items: center; }
  .toc[open] summary { min-height: 24px; }
  .toc[open] summary::after { margin-left: var(--s3); }
  .toc ul { flex-direction: row; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2) var(--s5); margin: 0; }
}

.prose { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s5); }
.prose h2 { font-size: var(--t-h3); margin-top: var(--s4); }
.prose h3 { font-size: var(--t-h4); }
.prose ul, .prose ol { margin: 0; padding-left: 1.4em; }
.prose blockquote { margin: 0; padding-left: var(--s5); border-left: 3px solid var(--c-line-2); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-text-2); }
.prose table { border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 1rem; }
.prose td, .prose th { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s2) var(--s3); text-align: left; vertical-align: top; }
.prose figure { margin: var(--s3) 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); align-items: center; }
.prose figure > img, .prose figure > video { background: var(--c-photo-frame); padding: var(--frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-print); }
.prose figcaption, .caption { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; font-size: var(--t-caption); color: var(--c-muted); text-align: center; line-height: 1.45; }
@media (min-width: 1100px) { .prose figure.is-wide { margin-left: calc(-1 * var(--s9)); margin-right: calc(-1 * var(--s9)); } }
.photo-pair { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: var(--s3); align-items: start; margin: var(--s3) 0; }
.photo-pair figure { margin: 0; }
.photo-pair figure > img { padding: 6px; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .photo-pair { margin-left: calc(-1 * var(--s7)); margin-right: calc(-1 * var(--s7)); gap: var(--s4); } }
.gallery { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: var(--s3); margin: var(--s3) 0; }
@media (min-width: 600px) { .gallery { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); } }
.gallery figure { margin: 0; gap: var(--s2); }
.gallery figure img { padding: 4px; box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 1 / 1; object-fit: cover; background: var(--c-photo-frame); }
.gallery .photo-open { aspect-ratio: 1 / 1; }
.gallery figcaption { font-size: .875rem; }
.gallery a { display: block; width: 100%; }

.itinerary { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s4); }
.itinerary ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 72px 1fr; gap: var(--s3) var(--s4); font-size: 1.0625rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.itinerary li { display: contents; }
.itinerary .day { font-family: var(--f-display); color: var(--c-brand); }
.itinerary details summary { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-brand); cursor: pointer; min-height: 44px; display: flex; align-items: center; text-decoration: underline; }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .itinerary { padding: var(--s6); } .itinerary ol { grid-template-columns: 88px 1fr; font-size: 1.125rem; } }

.story-tags { padding-top: var(--s2); }
.author-box { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: var(--s4); background: var(--c-surface-2); padding: var(--s5); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-text-2); line-height: var(--lh-ui); }
.author-box strong { font-family: var(--f-display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.25rem; color: var(--c-text); }

.pager { display: grid; gap: var(--s4); grid-template-columns: 1fr; font-family: var(--f-ui); }
@media (min-width: 600px) { .pager { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.pager a { border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s1); text-decoration: none; color: var(--c-text); background: transparent; }
.pager a:hover { border-color: var(--c-text-2); }
.pager .pager__dir { font-size: .8125rem; color: var(--c-muted); }
.pager .pager__title { font-family: var(--f-display); font-size: 1.25rem; line-height: 1.2; }
.pager .pager__date { font-size: .8125rem; color: var(--c-muted); }
.pager .pager__next { text-align: right; }
@media (min-width: 600px) { .pager .pager__next:only-child { grid-column: 2; } }

/* journey banner + next-on-route */
.journey-banner { background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); padding: var(--s4) var(--s5); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.journey-banner a { color: var(--c-on-ink); }
.journey-banner__top { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s2) var(--s4); }
.journey-banner .label { color: #E8836A; }
.legs { display: flex; gap: 4px; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.legs li { flex: 1; height: 4px; background: #5A514A; }
.legs li.done { background: var(--c-brand); }
.legs li.current { background: var(--c-on-ink); }
.journey-banner__nav { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s4); font-weight: 700; }
.journey-banner__nav a { text-decoration: none; min-height: 44px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; }
.journey-banner__nav a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.part-banner a { display: inline-block; min-height: 24px; padding: 3px 0; }
.part-banner { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s2) var(--s4); border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); background: var(--c-surface); padding: var(--s3) var(--s4); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
.next-route { border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); background: var(--c-surface); padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.next-route__title { font-size: var(--t-h4); }
.next-route h2 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.next-route h2 a:hover { color: var(--c-brand); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- comments */
.comments { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s4); margin-top: var(--s4); }
.comments__head { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s2) var(--s4); }
.comments__head h2 { font-size: var(--t-h3); }
.comments ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.comment { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s4) var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.comment--reply { margin-left: var(--s6); background: var(--c-surface-2); border-color: var(--c-line-2); }
@media (max-width: 599px) { .comment--reply { margin-left: var(--s4); } }
.comment__who { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s2); align-items: center; }
.comment__who strong { color: var(--c-text); }
.comment__who time { color: var(--c-muted); }
.comment__text { font-size: 1.0625rem; line-height: 1.6; white-space: pre-line; overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.comments details > summary { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-weight: 700; color: var(--c-brand); cursor: pointer; min-height: 44px; display: flex; align-items: center; text-decoration: underline; }
.comments details > ol { margin-top: var(--s3); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- journey page */
.journey-hero { display: grid; gap: var(--s6); align-items: start; padding-top: var(--s6); }
.journey-hero__text { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.journey-hero__text h1 { font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 1.6rem + 3.4vw, 4rem); line-height: 1; }
.journey-hero__text .button { align-self: flex-start; }
.journey-hero__links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s4); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .journey-hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.1fr; } }
.route-strip { margin-top: var(--s7); }
.route-strip__head { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: var(--s2); margin-bottom: var(--s4); }
.route-strip ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0 0 var(--s3); display: flex; gap: var(--s2); overflow-x: auto; position: relative; }
.route-strip li { flex: 1 0 68px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: var(--s2); text-align: center; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .8125rem; position: relative; }
.route-strip li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; top: 13px; left: -50%; right: 50%; height: 2px; background: var(--c-line-2); z-index: 0; }
.route-strip li:first-child::before { content: none; }
.route-strip a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: var(--s2); }
.route-strip .dot { position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 28px; height: 28px; border-radius: var(--r-pill); background: var(--c-brand); color: #fff; font-weight: 700;
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; font-size: .75rem; }
.route-strip .dot--empty { background: var(--c-surface); color: var(--c-text-2); border: 2px solid var(--c-line-2); }
.stops { list-style: none; margin: var(--s6) 0 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); }
.stop { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 40px 1fr; gap: var(--s4); padding: var(--s5) 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); align-items: start; }
.stop__n { font-family: var(--f-display); font-size: 1.75rem; color: var(--c-brand); line-height: 1; }
.stop__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); min-width: 0; }
.stop__where { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s1); }
.stop__where h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.stop__where .meta { font-size: .875rem; }
.stop__stories { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s1); font-size: 1.0625rem; overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.stop__stories ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s1); }
.stop__empty { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-muted); }
.stop__photo { width: 160px; border: 6px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .stop { grid-template-columns: 56px 1fr; }
  .stop__body { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 260px 1fr 180px; gap: var(--s4); align-items: start; }
  .stop__photo { width: 100%; grid-column: 3; }
}
.journey-notes { display: grid; gap: var(--s5); margin-top: var(--s7); }
@media (min-width: 800px) { .journey-notes { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.note-card { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.note-card h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.note-card h2 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.fine-print { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .875rem; color: var(--c-muted); line-height: var(--lh-ui); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- destinations */
.dest-hero { display: grid; gap: var(--s6); padding-top: var(--s6); align-items: start; }
.dest-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 1.6rem + 3.4vw, 4rem); line-height: 1; }
.dest-hero__stats { display: flex; gap: var(--s5); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; }
.dest-hero__stats strong { font-weight: 700; }
.dest-hero__photos { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.5fr 1fr; gap: var(--s2); background: var(--c-photo-frame); padding: var(--s2); box-shadow: var(--shadow-print); }
.dest-hero__photos img { width: 100%; height: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 4; object-fit: cover; }
.dest-hero__photos img:first-child { aspect-ratio: auto; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .dest-hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.1fr; } }
.places-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: var(--s3); margin-top: var(--s6); }
.dest-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--s5); grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .dest-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } }
@media (min-width: 1100px) { .dest-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); } }
.dest-card { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); text-decoration: none; color: var(--c-text); }
.dest-card img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; border: 6px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); }
.dest-card .dest-card__ph { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; background: var(--c-surface-2); border: 6px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card);
  display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; color: var(--c-muted); }
.dest-card h3 { font-size: 1.375rem; }
.dest-card:hover h3 { color: var(--c-brand); text-decoration: underline; }
.region-group { margin-top: var(--s7); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- photography + lightbox */
.photo-grid { columns: 2 160px; column-gap: var(--s4); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .photo-grid { columns: 4 200px; } }
.photo-grid figure { break-inside: avoid; margin: 0 0 var(--s4); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.photo-grid button { display: block; padding: 6px; background: var(--c-photo-frame); border: 0; box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); cursor: zoom-in; width: 100%; }
.photo-grid img { width: 100%; }
.photo-grid figcaption { font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-muted); line-height: 1.4; }
.photo-grid figcaption a { color: var(--c-muted); }
.photo-open { display: block; width: 100%; padding: 0; margin: 0; background: none; border: 0; cursor: zoom-in; font: inherit; color: inherit; }
.photo-open img { display: block; }
.photo-open:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--c-brand); outline-offset: 3px; }
.lightbox { border: 0; padding: 0; background: transparent; max-width: 96vw; max-height: 96vh; overflow: visible; }
.lightbox::backdrop { background: rgba(28, 24, 21, .9); }
.lightbox figure { margin: 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); align-items: center; }
.lightbox img { max-width: 92vw; max-height: 80vh; width: auto; height: auto; background: var(--c-photo-frame); padding: var(--frame); }
.lightbox figcaption { color: var(--c-on-ink); font-family: var(--f-display); font-style: italic; text-align: center; max-width: 60ch; }
.lightbox__close { position: fixed; top: var(--s4); right: var(--s4); min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; background: var(--c-surface); border: 0; border-radius: var(--r-xs);
  font-family: var(--f-ui); font-weight: 700; cursor: pointer; padding: 0 var(--s4); }
.lightbox__nav { display: flex; gap: var(--s3); }
.lightbox__nav button { min-height: 44px; padding: 0 var(--s4); background: var(--c-surface); border: 0; border-radius: var(--r-xs); font-family: var(--f-ui); font-weight: 700; cursor: pointer; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- about */
.about-intro { max-width: 46rem; }
.bios { display: grid; gap: var(--s7); margin-top: var(--s7); }
@media (min-width: 800px) { .bios { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.bio { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.bio .print img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.bio blockquote { margin: 0; font-style: italic; color: var(--c-text); font-size: 1.0625rem; line-height: 1.65; }
.timeline { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-left: 2px solid var(--c-line-2); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s5); }
.timeline li { padding-left: var(--s5); position: relative; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s1); }
.timeline li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: -7px; top: 10px; width: 12px; height: 12px; border-radius: var(--r-pill); background: var(--c-brand); }
.timeline .when { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-weight: 700; font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-brand); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- forms */
.contact-layout { display: grid; gap: var(--s7); padding-top: var(--s7); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .contact-layout { grid-template-columns: 1.1fr 1fr; align-items: start; } }
.form { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s5); font-family: var(--f-ui); }
.field { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.field label { font-weight: 700; font-size: .9375rem; }
.field input, .field textarea { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-radius: var(--r-xs); padding: var(--s3) 14px; min-height: 48px; font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: 1rem; }
.field textarea { min-height: 160px; resize: vertical; }
.field input:focus, .field textarea:focus { border-color: var(--c-text); outline: 2px solid var(--c-text); outline-offset: 1px; }
.field [aria-invalid="true"] { border-color: var(--c-error); }
.field-error { color: var(--c-error); font-weight: 700; font-size: .875rem; }
.field-error:empty { display: none; }
.check { display: flex; gap: var(--s3); align-items: flex-start; font-size: .9375rem; }
.check input { width: 24px; height: 24px; margin: 2px 0 0; flex: none; accent-color: var(--c-brand); }
.hp { position: absolute; left: -10000px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; }
.form .button { align-self: flex-start; }
.form-status { background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s5); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.form-status:empty { display: none; }
.form-status.is-ok { border-color: var(--c-accent-blue); }
.form-status.is-error, .form-status.is-warn { border-color: var(--c-error); color: var(--c-error); font-weight: 700; }
.form-status h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.notice { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; background: var(--c-surface-2); padding: var(--s3) var(--s4); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- search */
.search-page { max-width: 52rem; }
.search-form { display: flex; gap: var(--s2); margin-top: var(--s5); }
.search-form input { flex: 1; min-height: 56px; font-size: 1.25rem; padding: 0 var(--s4); background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line-2); border-radius: var(--r-xs); font-family: var(--f-body); }
.search-form input:focus { outline: 2px solid var(--c-text); outline-offset: 1px; }
.search-form .button { min-height: 56px; }
.search-chips { margin-top: var(--s5); }
.search-results { list-style: none; margin: var(--s6) 0 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.search-results li { padding: var(--s5) 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--c-line); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s2); }
.search-results h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; }
.search-results h2 a { color: var(--c-text); text-decoration: none; }
.search-results h2 a:hover { color: var(--c-brand); text-decoration: underline; }
.search-results p { font-size: 1.0625rem; color: var(--c-text-2); }
.dest-match { margin-top: var(--s6); display: flex; gap: var(--s4); align-items: center; background: var(--c-surface); border: 1px solid var(--c-line); padding: var(--s4); }
.dest-match img { width: 120px; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; object-fit: cover; border: 4px solid var(--c-photo-frame); box-shadow: var(--shadow-card); }
.search-status { font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; color: var(--c-muted); margin-top: var(--s4); min-height: 1.5em; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- 404 */
.lost { display: grid; gap: var(--s6); padding-top: var(--s7); }
.lost__photo img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; object-fit: cover; }
.lost__links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: var(--s4); font-family: var(--f-ui); }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- cookie banner */
.cookie-banner { position: fixed; z-index: 60; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; background: var(--c-text); color: var(--c-on-ink); padding: var(--s4) var(--gutter);
  font-family: var(--f-ui); font-size: .9375rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: var(--s3); }
.cookie-banner[hidden] { display: none; }
.cookie-banner a { color: var(--c-on-ink); }
.cookie-banner__actions { display: flex; gap: var(--s3); }
.cookie-banner__actions button { flex: 1; min-height: 44px; border-radius: var(--r-xs); font-weight: 700; cursor: pointer; border: 1px solid var(--c-on-ink); }
.cookie-banner__yes { background: var(--c-on-ink); color: var(--c-text); }
.cookie-banner__no { background: transparent; color: var(--c-on-ink); }
@media (min-width: 768px) { .cookie-banner { left: var(--s5); right: auto; bottom: var(--s5); max-width: 420px; padding: var(--s5); } }

@media print {
  .site-header, .site-footer, .progress, .cookie-banner, .journey-banner, .pager, .menu-panel { display: none !important; }
  .print, .prose figure > img { box-shadow: none; }
}

/* narrow-screen guards: grid/flex children may shrink below their content width */
.search-form input { min-width: 0; }
.search-form .button { flex: none; }
.lost > *, .contact-layout > *, .feature > *, .journey-hero > *, .dest-hero > * { min-width: 0; }
.photo-grid figcaption, .comment__who, .stop__stories { overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.lost > .measure { width: 100%; justify-self: center; }

/* vanilla-cookieconsent (house consent standard) themed with the design tokens */
#cc-main {
  --cc-font-family: var(--f-ui);
  --cc-bg: var(--c-text);
  --cc-primary-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-secondary-color: var(--c-on-ink-muted);
  --cc-btn-primary-bg: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-primary-color: var(--c-text);
  --cc-btn-primary-border-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-primary-hover-bg: #ffffff;
  --cc-btn-primary-hover-color: var(--c-text);
  --cc-btn-primary-hover-border-color: #ffffff;
  --cc-btn-secondary-bg: transparent;
  --cc-btn-secondary-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-secondary-border-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-secondary-hover-bg: #3a332e;
  --cc-btn-secondary-hover-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-secondary-hover-border-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-btn-border-radius: var(--r-xs);
  --cc-modal-border-radius: var(--r-sm);
  --cc-link-color: var(--c-on-ink);
  --cc-separator-border-color: #4a423b;
  --cc-toggle-on-bg: var(--c-brand);
  --cc-cookie-category-block-bg: #3a332e;
  --cc-cookie-category-block-hover-bg: #453d37;
  --cc-section-category-border: #4a423b;
  --cc-footer-bg: #231f1b;
  --cc-footer-color: var(--c-on-ink-muted);
  --cc-footer-border-color: #4a423b;
}